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 Tips for Shirts

Jay Gatsby, Fitzgerald's fictional dandy, was the ultimate shirt connoisseur. He had only to ring up his personal buyer, and a cornucopia of elegant linens, silks and flannels would arrive. Most American men, however, buy their dress shirts the way they buy supermarket chicken - with a hasty examination of the parts visible through the plastic wrap and an assumption that what's hidden will be fine.

Jay Gatsby, Fitzgerald's fictional dandy, was the ultimate shirt connoisseur. He had only to ring up his personal buyer, and a cornucopia of elegant linens, silks and flannels would arrive. Most American men, however, buy their dress shirts the way they buy supermarket chicken - with a hasty examination of the parts visible through the plastic wrap and an assumption that what's hidden will be fine. As for quality features, they wouldn't know a gauntlet from a gusset, much less a well-constructed example of each.

Fortunately, even the sartorially unsophisticated can buy quality, and even a touch of luxury, off the rack. A first-class manufactured shirt, explains Alex Kabbaz, president of the Manhattan-based Pec & Company custom shirtmakers, obviously won't sport such custom features as ''genuine Australian mother-of-pearl buttons.'' But it ought to have high-quality fabric, cross-stitched pearl-variety buttons, single-needle construction and neat, even stitches, no fewer than 14 to the inch.

In fabric, the cognoscenti prefer pure cotton. As a rule, all-cotton shirts, which absorb perspiration, are far more comfortable than the usually less expensive polyester/cotton blends. Cotton, however, comes in numerous guises, from the lowest-quality 10's singles to the silky 160's two-plies used in the finest custom shirts.

But just what do these terms mean? Singles, as the name suggests, denotes cloth woven from single yarns, while two-ply means those yarns have been twisted together, a process that strengthens the fabric and ultimately reduces pilling. Technically, Kabbaz explains, the numbers refer to the dernier, or fineness, of the yarn, and the higher the numbers are, the longer the cotton fiber, the finer the yarn and the tighter the fabric construction. Eighties two-ply cotton, for example, is the opening fabric in many better and designer collections. It is the pinnacle, however, of a moderately priced line such as Arrow Shirts, notes Lorrie Smith, Arrow's production manager of dress shirts.

The geography of cotton labels is even more befuddling than the mathematics. The top-quality Egyptian cotton, for instance, actually comes from Egypt, but much so-called Sea Island cotton, which is long-staple (long-fiber) and hand-picked, is grown in the West Indies. (The name comes from the Georgia coastal island where such fine cotton originated.) Although Threadtex Inc., a Manhattan-based fabric converter, has copyrighted the Sea Island name in conjunction with its TTX logo, there are other, comparable fabrics. For instance, in the opinion of Jim Batsides, a partner in Andros Imported Shirtings in Manhattan, ''Anything over 110's, 120's is the equivalent of Sea Island cotton.''

The other critical ''raw material'' in a topnotch dress shirt is buttons. The best, which are made of mother-of-pearl, are thick, white and luminescent, notes Kabbaz, but their hefty retail cost - about 70 cents apiece - confines them largely to the custom market and the most expensive mass-manufactured shirts. High-quality off-the-rack shirts are more likely to sport troca pearl buttons. They're ivory in hue, thinner and more fragile than oyster-derived mother-of-pearl, and cost only about 20 cents apiece. Plastic buttons are the least expensive and, ironically, the most durable, but using them on an 80's-plus two-ply shirt is ''like putting vinyl seats in a Rolls-Royce,'' scoffs Jody Kuss, assistant vice president and merchandise manager of men's furnishings and accessories at Barneys New York.

High-quality shirts also boast all-single-needle construction, a process that involves setting a seam with one stitch and reinforcing it with another. The visible result is single rows of stitches that ''outline'' the seams. The advantages, according to Alan Behar, vice president of Ike Behar Ltd. shirtmakers in New York City, include ''flatter, more durable seams, which look neater and feel more comfortable against the body.'' Double- or twin-needle seams, in contrast, are bulkier and susceptible to often-irreversible cockling. Because single-needling is an expensive process that requires substantial handwork, most lower-priced shirts have single-needle armholes, shoulders and plackets, but double-needle side-stitching, or felling.

Chances are, they also have fewer stitches per inch than more expensive shirts. Most quality lines fall somewhere between 14 and 30 stitches to the inch, depending on fabric and lining. For the consumer, that means straight and relatively unnoticeable stitches. If they're too fine (a sign of too many stitches per inch), the tension will pucker the fabric, warns Kuss. If they're too large and loose, they'll be weak and look sloppy.

Few shirt details, however, denote a poorly made garment more than a sloppy collar. First check whether the top-stitching is regular, and the stitch count uniform, especially around the collar points. Note, too, whether the points look exactly alike, particularly if the fabric is patterned, and whether the collar stays come out. Although removable stays have snob appeal, they're also practical: A hot iron may press the outline of a permanent stay right into the fabric. Check the collar band, too, for bubbling or excess material.

Collar linings are a matter of personal preference. Woven cotton interlinings are more flexible, more comfortable and launder better than top-fused collars, in which a nonwoven lining has been fused with the collar fabric. Fused collars, on the other hand, look neat, hold their shape and are less subject to pilling and abrasion, particularly from a man's heavy beard, notes Lorrie Smith.

Yokes, the fabric pieces that stretch across the shoulder blades, also come in two varieties. A genuine split yoke, unquestionably a hallmark of a better-made shirt, is made up of two pieces of fabric sewn together up the shirt's center back. The process is derived from the custom-made business, in which the pieces are angled to fit the individual client's shoulders. ''It will afford an elasticity of movement around the shoulder,'' says the designer Garrick Anderson, and will also prove more flexible in laundering.

A simulated yoke is made of only one fabric piece, split and sewn. In inexpensive shirts, the seam may be simulated, or the split limited to the inner yoke.

Like collars, sleeves can be treacherous turf for the quality-conscious. The fabric on a well-made sleeve will pleat gently as it feeds into the cuff, allowing a neat appearance and roominess at the elbow. And the sleeve will have a fully constructed placket, or gauntlet, often with a button sewn in the center or three-fourths of the way to the cuff. Some say the button is purely decorative, while others insist that it will hold in place a cuff that is rolled up just one fold.

Exact sleeve length - just 33 or 34, for example, rather than 33-34 - is another mark of distinction. The hyphenated number found on many shirts was developed purely as a retail convenience, to reduce the number of stockkeeping units. According to Jody Kuss, the higher number is the actual length of the sleeve, which means that a 33-34 will probably be a shade too long for the man who ideally needs a 33.

Last, but not least to the tall and portly, are matters of hem, tails and gussets. A proper shirt hem should be tiny and single-needle-stitched. And on a quality garment, the back tail ought to be about two inches longer than the front, to prevent it from pulling out of your pants and walking up your back.

A small storm of controversy, however, swirls around gussets, those fabric inserts sometimes sewn where side seams hit the hem. Proponents of these expensive features contend that they reinforce the seams and provide an extra measure of roominess. Alex Kabbaz, on the other hand, thinks they're ''ludicrous,'' and asserts that ''if you cut a shirt correctly in the first place, you won't need any gussets.''

Whatever the refinements, you'll pay more for a shirt that has them than you would for a garment of only average construction. Remember, though, that price does not buy perfection, nor does quality guarantee fit. Before you leave the store, remove a shirt from its packaging, examine its features, question the sales clerk, if necessary, and try it on. And consult your laundry about the shirt's proper care, if you hope to enjoy its beauty anew with each washing.

By LAUREN R. RUBLIN

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 Formal Businesss Attire

“How to Buy a Business Suit”

As you begin to flourish in the workplace, your wardrobe must expand along with you. Always consider the atmosphere of your office, what your position is, and the long-term goals you have as you choose your business attire. And remember that what you see on the following pages needn’t be accumulated immediately or even one year. A wardrobe, like a career, tales time to build.


DO MY CLOTHES MEAN BUSINESS?

Navy Interview Suit + 3 Suits = Work Wardrobe

As with your interview suit, the suits you buy should be the best quality you can afford in classic styles.
Following these guidelines will allow you versatility and will make your budget go further.

Dark gray suit

Just like a navy suit, gray is basic but vital. Everything looks good with gray and everything mixes with it. The fabric should be worsted wool that can be worn nearly all year-round. A two-or three-button style is best there button is just as traditional and can often be more slimming, either with a single rear vent or without.

The world, of course, is not black and white, it’s gray and with good reason. It’s elegant and formal. A man in gray is serious and unassailable. The tailoring on this suit should be the same as with the navy suit .Make sure the trousers are cuffed, and if they have little buttons on inside of the waist, they’re for suspenders.

Light Gray Suit

For a third suit, light gray is a smart option. It is just as versatile as its darker cousin, and can be worn further into the summer months. A khaki suit is an alternative for this as well.

Opt for some variation between your gray suits. For instance, if the dark one is two-button, make this one there.

Khaki Poplin Suit

A warm weather essential for any man, the khaki suit is like navy for the summer. Split this suit in half when on the road and you have a pair of khaki pants or a khaki pants or a khaki jacket.
The khaki suit is slightly more casual than darker suits, Dressy and polished poplin is also lightweight, which makes it ideal for summer. Because the fabric is so lightweight, be sure the suit is pressed (or at least steamed) often. Otherwise, you can look like an unmade bed.

Bullet proof:

The most formal sport jacket there is, a blazer is appropriate for any work environment and arguably the hardest-working item in your closet. A blazer with a little bit of structure in the shoulders and lining will fit more like a suit jacket than a more casual coat. Traditionally, the blazer has gold buttons (it began as a nautical uniform), but almost any store will offer dark navy buttons as well, or replace them free of charge. Go for this option.The Blue Blazer

The blue blazer is like the remote control: Quite simply, man cannot live without one. Perfect for the office, business lunch’s travel, and weekends, a blazer can dress you up and take you anywhere.
As with your suits, try to get a wool blazer that’s enough for summer and heavy enough for winter.
Two-button single-breasted is best but three-button is perfectly acceptable.

COLLAR
The collar of a jacket or Custom suit should be lined with wool. This will help it lie flat against the neck and shoulders.

BUTTONS
Look for quality stitching around the buttons, meaning the thread is wrapped around itself many times to anchor them.

POCKETS
The pockets should be lined with rayon or cotton. This will help the jacket maintain its shape better. To ensure this even more, don’t open your jacket pockets.

Sport Jackets

When a suit isn’t called for, a sport jacket is. While not as dressy, it is certainly appropriate for the workplace. Indeed as dress codes for the workplace have relaxed over the years, the sport jacket has become not only acceptable, but necessary; it provides flexibility and credibility. Paired with nice trousers and a shirt and tie and sometimes without one, the sport jacket still looks extremely polished.

TESTING PATTERNS

Many patterned jackets trace their origin to the hunting and fishing pastimes of Scotland, which explains the names of those sporting-inspired designs: Hounds tooth, herringbone, etc. Sport jackets provide an excellent opportunity to get some color, particularly earth tones, into your wardrobe. Since the patterns are often more casual looking, pay more attention to the therefore preferable.

HERRINGBONE
An excellent way to begin patterns because it’s tweedy without being stuffy. The chevron design comes in large and small, but smaller is subtler, and therefore preferable.

HOUNDS TOOTH
Like herringbone, hounds tooth comes in large and small variations and, again, smaller is better. Black-and-white is classic, but shades of brown are no less traditional.

CHECK
Whereas hounds tooth is more ragged (but not ragged-looking), the square check is neater and usually more bold.

PLAID
In a suit, plaid sometimes knows as a prince of Wales plaid can be formal, but in a sport jacket its well, sportier. Here, variations of brown are more versatile than black-and-white.

TWEED
Whether flecked or heathered, simple tweed adds color and texture to your wardrobe. And some of the other patterns, a tweed is more seasonal, ideal for cold weather

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 Italian Dressing

The value of fine Italian menswear is intrinsically linked to its top design firms

 

The duty of the Italian couturier has always been to provide its customers with modest concealment, protection from the elements, higher social standing and a subtle sexual allure.

 

Centuries after the cultured men of Rome hung up their paludamenta, or robes, after their last toga party, Italian menswear has boldly marched into the modern clothing forum. Thanks to a heritage that dates back to the mid-1800s, savvy men are able to enjoy the sartorial splendor of Italian menswear design. It's easy to appreciate the generations of dedicated families that are responsible for producing the world's finest wines, cigars, cars and coffee, but we tend to take the traditions of Italian tailoring for granted. The Roman suit wasn't built in a day! Neither was the Neapolitan.

The godfathers of Italian tailored men's fashion are a unique and intriguing breed. These trusted old-school tailors can be somewhat egocentric, even downright stubborn. Yet their enigmatic work habits are the key to their mastery of the trade. The world has been left with a great shortage of these talented artisans; the few who remain form an exclusive group that takes great pride in the meticulous handwork required to create a fine garment. Like their counterparts on Savile Row, Italian tailors cut and sew every lapel, pocket, sleeve and collar completely by hand.

 

  "A good suit is like a good cigar," Kiton president Massimo Bizzocchi declares. "You have to make sure it is rolled properly. You can call a cigar a cigar, but unless it's truly by hand, it's not a real cigar." The same goes for clothing, Bizzocchi says. "You've got to keep the fiber alive." What Bizzocchi is referring to is the way in which a cutter rolls the individual pieces of a garment together before it is sent for 25 hours of tailoring.

The rolling technique, as well as the art of measuring, cutting, basting, sewing, fitting and finishing, takes many years for a tailor to learn. Brioni's tailoring school in Penne, for instance, trains the company's master tailors for a minimum of four years before they are allowed to hand-cut and -sew garments.

While many accomplished Italian tailors can be found in New York City, such as Tony Maurizio, Bill Fioravanti, Nino Corvato, Mimmo Spano and Russell Giliberto, Italy, of course, still boasts the largest number of these extraordinary craftsmen. Their trade is as mystifying and secretive as the magicians' guild and, like the art of magic, the manner in which these maestros create their works cannot possibly be conveyed by textbooks. As a result, very little is known about the history or the minutiae of a handmade Italian suit. Getting direct answers about the internal workings of an Italian suit is like pulling teeth. But if you spend enough time with these garment makers, you'll find that their enthusiasm and passion for their craft can occasionally get the better of them; some of the secrets that have created today's tailored masterpieces may slowly slip through the cracks.

The history behind Italian designer suits dates back prior to the unification of Italy, in 1861. In 1850, when the Savoy dynasty still ruled the town of Cagliari, in Sardegna, Italy's first tailoring atelier, Castangia, opened shop. This marked a new era in the sartorial personality of Italian menswear, and the word sarto--Italian for tailor--entered the language of world fashion.

The Italian textile industry was already well established in the middle of the nineteenth century when a textile company called Somma Spa established a wool-production group in Somma Lombardo, just outside Milan, in 1865. (The transition from the production of raw materials to the manufacture of garments has always been a natural progression.) Somma Spa was destined to evolve into the now renowned firm Vestimenta, whose first manufacturing plant, in Matterello, opened in the early 1960s. Today, the firm continues to devote its resources solely to production. "We don't think it's imperative to be in the retail market," says Vestimenta president Sandy Symkens. "We've built our business by being a viable resource to high-end stores, not by opening competing freestanding shops. By controlling our distribution, Vestimenta has a certain cachet."

 

  Another mill-to-maker transformation got under way in 1910, when 21-year-old Ermenegildo Zegna, a recent graduate of Scuole Professionale Tessili Di Biella, opened a textile school in Biella. Zegna's original aim was to equal and eventually surpass the English in their production of quality woven textiles. Twenty years later, the Italian opened Oasi Zegna, a textile factory overlooking the district of Trivero, which provided health and education facilities for its employees. The textile trade of Italy was blossoming into a new industry. While the United Kingdom still ruled the world of tailoring, suit making was becoming a very serious business in Italy.

 

  Although Italian clothiers were gaining acclaim, many Italian aristocrats remained loyal to England's tailors. Entrepreneurial Italians examined these London-made bespoke suits to discover the mysteries of the garments' internal construction. Soon, the Savile Row suit was no longer the only option.

 

  "Now I must touch upon a sore spot," the prolific Italian writer Antonio Gramsci wrote to his father in 1910. "You, as regards the suit, have not written to me any more; and I, for my part, when I went to Ghilarza for Easter looked indecent, as you yourself told me. Since you thought that it was my fault for not having Castangia make me a suit." The importance and prestige of wearing an Italian-made tailored suit was slowly becoming a reality.

The suits considered to be the modern classics were created in the 1930s, a period American fashion expert Alan Flusser describes as "the height of elegance." This was the decade that the Triuggio-based firm, Canali, entered the trade. Its emphasis on precision cutting and fully canvased construction, with hand-rolled collars and hand-set sleeves--a benchmark--became an industry standard. It was also the era that spawned Naples-based tailor Vincenzo Attolini, known for introducing the "rag" jacket, the boat pocket and closed sleeve. The '30s also gave birth to the Mantova-based couturier Corneliani, who along with others, made his mark by experimenting with different colors and styles.

During the Second World War, suits quite often needed to be both beautiful and durable. Anna Zegna, a fourth-generation descendant of Ermenegildo, recalls the period: "When it was not so easy to have new jackets made each season, Zegna jackets were carefully undone and turned inside out to be worn anew. In those days it was said that a Zegna jacket was the garment for life."

 

 Life in Italy was hard during the war, but the Italians' commitment to fashioning quality garments never waned. In 1945, as the modern tailoring tradition developed, master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli teamed with Gaetano Savini to launch a company called Atelier Brioni. Named after an island resort in the Adriatic, the company soon created a new modus operandi for a generation of suit manufacturers. Although the catwalks of Europe had never been exposed to anything other than women's haute couture, the company presented its first complete collection of men's fashions on the runways at the Sala Bianca, in Florence, in 1952. Two years later, Brioni dazzled New York, beginning a transatlantic love affair that continues to flourish.

The 1950s proved to be a momentous decade in Italian clothing history. The country now boasted more tailors than France and Britain combined, and the world's couture standards, which had previously been set in London and Paris, were now being challenged by Rome and Naples.

 

As the Italian fashion industry matured, a great deal remained to be learned about the metamorphosis from cloth to clothes. After two centuries of family ties to the wool industry in Naples, Ciro Paone applied his craftsmanship to the ready-made market in 1956. He adopted the name Kiton, a Greek term used to describe tunics worn by the leaders of ancient Hellenic society. It was an appropriate designation, as Neapolitan tailors had a tradition of service to the monarchy and the aristocracy dating back to the nineteenth century. Today, Kiton has more than 180 tailors, one of the world's largest concentrations of clothing artistry.

 

The already high standards set by Brioni and Canali were met by Kiton, which decided to raise the stakes even higher by using finer fabrics and improving construction methods. Besides stimulating creativity, the rivalry between the northern and southern Italian design houses spurred media hype as the world turned its head to look at a 1950s Rome that fancied itself as the new fashion capital of the world. But Italy's most influential years were yet to come.

In 1972, Vestimenta successfully converted its 10-year-old business into a serious designer-clothing label poised to take on the modern world. The transformation was spearheaded by 38-year-old Giorgio Armani from Piacenza. The world was now focused intently on Italy, and in 1975, 30 years after the Brioni menswear launch, Armani premiered his own collection. With sartorial powerhouses now established in Rome, Naples and Milan, Italy's dominance of men's fashion was undisputed.

The styling influence of Italian tailoring reached its zenith in the 1980s, thanks to Armani. The low button stance and strong shoulder became the new benchmark for the modern block pattern.

When examining the intrinsic value and quality of a suit, a number of factors should be considered. First and foremost, the fabric is the critical determinant of a suit's quality, and will most certainly affect the price tag, so it's crucial to make sure that it feels great and looks luxurious.

 

  "It all starts with the fabric," says Kiton's Bizzocchi. For Kiton, fabric quality begins in Australia and New Zealand, where merino sheep are bred in "the most optimum climate to produce the best quality." Some of this superfine merino wool can be less than 14 microns in diameter (cashmere is typically 13 microns), so the "hand," or feel of the fabric, is superb. "Climatic conditions produce fine grass that a small flock of merino sheep graze on. Like a fine vintage wine, the quality of this wool may never be seen again," says Bizzocchi. Kiton's top customers gladly pay $5,000 or more for a suit of quality.

 

 Superior fabric has always been hard to find. Mill space (looms available to weave new cloth) in the famous wool mills of northern England and the domestic wool mills of Italy is always tight. To further complicate matters, Italian mills close shop for the month of August. Castangia's vice president, Dr. Alberto Grilletti, and his ancestors before him have seen many mills come and go. Grilletti still chooses fabrics "from the best suppliers in Italy and England." English mills tend to produce a comparatively matte-finished cloth, while the cloth made by Italian mills generally has a little more sheen.

 

 Despite the annual holiday exodus in August, Canali elects to have the vast majority of its fabric loomed exclusively in the Biella region. Canali sales representatives describe the evolution of their fabric as "avant-garde fibers joining natural ones in a mix conceived with an eye on the future and respect for the past." Having exquisite fabric is paramount and many designer labels invest heavily in the creation of new material. "The degree to which Vestimenta gets involved with developing fabrics is unusual in the menswear business," says Symkens. Vestimenta tries to anticipate its customers' desires by fostering close ties with its retailers.

 

Another critical factor to consider is the internal construction of the jacket. "The engine, the 12-cylinder, is in the shoulder, collar and chest," Bizzocchi says. This design will affect the way the suit "molds" itself to your body and will determine the life of the garment. Putting on a jacket should feel a little like throwing on a light cashmere sweater, according to Bizzocchi. "Buy with the brain, not with the eyes," he advises.

One should also know whether the suit jacket is fused or constructed with canvas. In a fused jacket, heat is used to glue the interlining to the inside of the garment. In a canvas jacket, fine hand-sewing secures the interlining. A jacket constructed with canvas is lighter, better reinforced, more resilient, and molds to the shape of the body more closely. Not surprisingly, it is also more expensive. Some clothiers fuse the front of the jacket and use canvas in the chest area.

 

Finally, be aware of the attention to detail lavished on the final touches. Hand-sewn lapels, "working button holes" on the cuffs, horn buttons and other fine points lend personality and character to the garment.

 

As history has shown, the world's great design houses do not survive by resting on their laurels or living off last season's success. Following in the footsteps of the Italian entrepreneurs of the early twentieth century, who learned from the bespoke tailors of London and added flourishes that were uniquely theirs, today's Italian tailors have continued this tradition. Taking the best from America's preppy look of the 1950s, Italy is reinventing modern style. Modern style should reflect a "global look," one that acknowledges a contemporary touch without looking like a high-fashion statement. The styling should also be suitable to and appropriate for business on either side of the Atlantic. An American-Italian hybrid is emerging, featuring a higher button stance and a softer shoulder with a pinch more room in the chest for today's man. This new image and design are so appropriate for the American market that Corneliani was recently awarded a manufacturing licensee agreement for Ralph Lauren for the upcoming fall/winter season.

With dress-down Fridays and casual-dress mandates increasingly becoming the mode, the next sartorial advances remain a mystery. "The future of menswear will be characterized by a great attention, not to the trademark, but mostly to the quality of the product," predicts Castangia's Grilletti. "This is determined by the fabric, the technique of the manufacture and by the style, which have to follow the new trend." According to Canali, that means many jackets are now being constructed with a more defined waist and trousers are becoming more straight-legged and slim.

 

Brioni's worldwide chairman, Umberto Angeloni, has been described as the ambassador of Italian fashion. Brioni won the contract to dress the James Bond character for Goldeneye and Tomorrow Never Dies. Angeloni regards actor Pierce Brosnan as an excellent example of modern fashion. "He will be the new Gary Cooper," he predicts. Brioni's new suits feature plain and fancy weaves, herringbones and covert wools in banker's stripes and antique checks. The firm sees the three-button single-breasted models with a slightly higher button stance as the dominant style in today's clothing collections. Giorgio Armani's spring/summer 1999 collection is described by the company as "the expression of a desire for correctness, a good fit and ease; of the memory of a certain traditional style and sophistication; of a move towards new frontiers."

 

For Atelier Attolini, it's not a move forward, but rather a firm foothold in the past. The firm builds on its tailoring heritage, creating, as the Attolini family puts it, "a perfect marriage: a style for today's man based on yesterday's elegance....The jackets will always have boat pockets and the buttons on the cuff will still be close together." The company's motto, borrowed from the nineteenth century French writer Alexandre Dumas, is "all for one and one for all."

Another view focuses on the "mind style" of tomorrow's man. "Attention to the customer's lifestyle evolution is of the utmost importance for us, so that we are able to offer our customers products that answer their needs even before they have fully defined them," Anna Zegna says. "This is why we prefer to talk about 'mind style,' a way of life that has not yet been translated into action but belongs more to the realm of dreams and desires."

The Italian entrepreneurial spirit never wavers. Assessing today's market, Corneliani says, "Now that stylists work on an industrial level and the consumer is no longer prepared to accept something just because it carries a designer label, the winning card appears to be the entrepreneur-stylist, [who is] capable of guaranteeing taste and creativity but first and foremost the quality of the product." Jack Ferrari, Corneliani's former executive vice president, says, "The future requires a commitment to service. Specials to save the sale. [Corneliani is] currently developing technology with an aim to turn around a made-to-measure suit in three weeks."

Whether a made-to-measure suit can be made in three weeks or not, one thing is certain: being sold a fine tailored suit by an Italian couturier who's passionate about his product is a truly pleasurable experience. If you're not just an average man, the godfathers of Italian menswear are more than happy to give you a small slice of the action. To quote Massimo Bizzocchi, as I felt a beautiful Kiton jacket being placed on my shoulders for the first time, "Welcome to the family."

Luke Mayes is a freelance fashion writer based in New York City.

 

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 ON THE STREETS, Dress Whites

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 The Right Shirt and Collar for Men

Reviewing the five elements of a shirt and ideas on how to select the right one.

Gone are the days when blue, white and discreet stripes were the only shirt options for the businessman. Today there are many choices in fabric, styles and colors, and selecting carefully will ensure both professionalism and comfort.

Let’s look at the five elements of a shirt that need to be considered individually.

Fabric

Fine quality dress shirts are made out of 100% cotton. Cotton “breathes” and absorbs moisture which allows the body to cool itself. A blend of at least 60% cotton is another option. It is the weave and finish that make a shirt either casual or formal. Broadcloth is smooth and has a silky finish appropriate for a dress shirt and, conversely, oxford has a rougher finish and usually comes in button-down style. A broadcloth should be worn with a suit, being more formal, and an oxford with a blazer and trousers, being a casual choice. Avoid wearing an oxford with a suit but a pinpoint oxford is a slightly finer finished version of the oxford and can be worn successfully with a suit. The best fabrics available are Egyptian cottons.

Colour

Coloured shirts can make you look more approachable and are really nice in expanding our options vis-à-vis ties and suits. Alternatively, choose white or soft whites for a formal, authoritative look. Pastels tend to help bridge the gap between authoritative on the one hand, and approachable on the other. Traditionally, the darker the colour of the shirt, the less formal the appearance.

When it comes to stripes, the narrower the more formal. Likewise, coloured stripes on a white shirt are formal, white stripes on a coloured shirt are casual or, at least, less formal.

Collar

Since the collar essentially frames the face, it is important to select a collar which works best for your physical proportions. The details to consider are the spread, which means the distance between the points of the collar which can be narrow, medium or wide and the points length which can be short, average or long. For balance, follow this chart to select the best shirt collar for your face shape.

Face Shape	Acceptable	Avoid
Rectangular-Square Jaw	Average to slightly short collar Average to slightly wide spread Standard collar Button-down Tab collar Pin collar	Long points
Square	Standard collar Average to slightly long collar Average to slightly narrow spread Tab collar Pin collar Button-down	Wide and short collars
Inverted triangle or Diamond	Standard collar Slightly short collar Average to slightly spread collar	Long points Pin collar Button-down
Oval or oblong	Standard collar Slightly wide spread Short length Button-down	Long points Round collar
Round, wide spread	Slightly short collars Button-down	Round collars Narrow spreads Long points

For a standard collar and button-down shirt, opt for either a half-Windsor or the four-in-hand knots for your tie. The tab collar needs a tighter four-in-hand, while the wide-spread collar requires a half or full Windsor for balance. All woven tie material should be tied in a four-in-hand.

Fit

Surprisingly, very few men wear properly sized shirts. Properly fitted, a buttoned collar should allow you to comfortably insert one finger between your neck and the collar. In addition to comfort, an ill-fitted collar will prevent your tie from sitting correctly and your points to lay improperly. Conversely, if the shirt is too loose, it is equally incorrect. If you cannot find a nice fitting shirt, consider having them custom made.

Cuffs

Shirt cuffs are the last element to consider. The two basic styles are the single or barrel cuff, with one or two buttons, and the double or French cuff. French cuffs are dressier and require the addition of cufflinks to close the cuff. Most men prefer a simple gold or mother-of-pearl cufflink or, alternatively, wear a pair of silk knots. Add novelty cufflinks unless the shirt unless the shirt is informal, as demonstrated by the other elements. Cuffs should extend about a quarter inch below the jacket if you were a single cuff and about a half-inch for French cuffs.

Adam Robert

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 Technical Specification of cloth

FIL FIL

A light cloth with a cloth frame work. Two lines of alternating colours, alternating them, are placed on the warp. The thick grid that results produces the sensation of a single colour fabric with a slight irregular surface. It is a cloth suitable for sporty shirts, but also formal ones.

In the samples three different qualities are present.

 

We start with the classic and fresh fil fil in pure cotton ( dari ) realised in seventeen different colours, to pass on to a variety in medium-weight double-twisted pure cotton with a very soft "hand" (cefa), present in seven shades and end with a very fine cloth of great value, also in double-twisted pure cotton (22993), available in five versions.

 

Dari - pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 156-164 grms./ml

 

Cefa -double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Canclini s.p.a.

 

Weight 155 grms./ml Title 90/2 - 90/2

 

22992 - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Thomas Mason

 

Weight 100 - 115 grms./ml Title 100/2 - 100/2

 

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ENGLISH TURN

 

 

An exclusive cloth whose framework requires particular looms which intertwine the weft and warp threads in such a manner as to create a staggered effect and confer solidity and suppleness.

 

Cloths in pure cotton (twil) and in double-twisted pure cotton (sign) and (picc) are present whose pleasing softness your will notice, just as soon as you don them.

 

 

Twil - pure cotton

 

Cloth Cotonificio Albini s.p.a.

 

Weight 150 - 155 grms./ml

 

Sign - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Canclini s.p.a.

 

Weight 169 grms./ml Title 90/2 - 90/2

 

Picc - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Cotonificio Albini s.p.a.

 

Weight 195 - 202 grms./ml Title 80/2 - 50/2

 

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LINEN

 

 

Linen, a natural fibre amongst the longest, possesses an optimal resistance to washing and use.

 

Of a shiny aspect, even if rough to the touch and easily creased, worn with great pleasure, especially in the hot months. In fact another cloth fresher than linen does not exist.

 

At the shirt-makers, normally, it is woven with a cloth framework and this further facilitates the passage of air. A linen shirt, a summer classic, should never be missing from one's wardrobe.

 

Available in six colours.

 

 

Linen - Pure twisted linen

 

Cloth Leggiuno s.p.a.

 

Weight 175-185 grms./ml title 19/2

 

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DAMASK

 

 

This cloth, normally white, is enriched with shiny threads which, ordered from special weavers, form geometrical designs in relief. With a jacquard framework, from the name of the Frenchman Joseph-Marie Jacquard, inventor of the special loom, the shirts with damask cloth find their natural use in the evening or on formal occasions.

 

 

Trev - pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 161 - 170 grms./ml

 

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OXFORD

 

 

Together with Poplin and fil fil it is amongst the most classic and used cloths for shirts.

 

A weft thread for every two warp threads, woven with a cloth framework, form the characteristic relief points, whilst the thickness of the threads determine a more or less evident granular effect.

 

Oxford cloth is particularly suitable for the realisation of sport (especially button down) and formal shirts, even if they result less elegant than batiste or poplin.

 

We present of cloth with a more evident grain (moga), in pure cotton and available in nine colours, a second version, in medium grain (brev), in double-twisted pure cotton, soft and shiny, adapt for many occasions, and finally a shaved Oxford (camb), in fine grain, in double-twisted cotton, with a very soft and silky "hand", present in four varieties.

 

 

Moga - pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 201-212 grms./ml

 

Brev - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Canclini s.p.a.

 

Weight 180 grms./ml title 90/2 - 90/2

 

Camb - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Thomas Mason

 

Weight 130-133 grms./ml title 80/2 - 80/2

 

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POPLIN

 

 

A cloth amongst the most used in the production of shirts.

 

The cloth framework with double warp threads with respect to the weft render is particularly compact and resistant. The typical cloth for a formal shirt.

 

We present two varieties: the first (coto) realised in five colours, is a shiny cloth and of soft "hand" that, both in white, or coloured, combines well with elegant suits.

 

The second (cast) in double-twisted cotton, is smooth and with above normal shininess. Due to its fineness it adapts to all seasons. This cloth, of a superior quality, is presented in seven colours.

 

 

Coto - pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 146-153 grms./ml

 

Cast - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 173-182 grms./ml Tittle 100/2 - 100/2

 

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SILK

 

 

The most noble of the natural fibres. Expensive due to the type of production and valued for its characteristics of shininess, suppleness, lightness and freshness, as well as its fineness, it is a very resistant cloth with a good thermal protection. It has always been considered a products of the highest value. Realised in Crepe de Chine and available in five colours, a silk shirt from Edel2000 is to be reserved for special occasions.

 

 

Silk - Crepe de Chine pure silk

 

Cloth Tessitura Valli

 

Weight 90 grms./ml 3 threads

 

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HERRING-BONE

 

 

The Levantine framework confers the cloth with a diagonal structure. To obtain the typical herringbone effects the direction of the spinning is inverted with a frequency that varies in proportion to the width of the bone one wishes to obtain. The light herringbone effect we propose in the five varieties in double-twisted cotton, render the shirt adapt for every occasion.

 

 

Towe - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Thomas Mason

 

Weight 129-133 grms./ml title 80/2 - 80/2

 

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TWILL

 

 

General name of all cloth with a framework, characterised by fine diagonal ribs oriented at 45 degrees. A shirt in twill will maintain its fold and stands out due to its interesting reflexes. Not suitable for the summer season.

 

We present a version in pure cotton (timo) available in eight colours and one in double-twisted pure cotton (towe) realised in six varieties.

 

 

Timo -pure cotton

 

Cloth Tessitura Monti s.p.a.

 

Weight 156-164grms./ml

 

Towe - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Thomas Mason

 

Weight 129-133grms./ml title 80/2 - 80/2

 

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VOILE

 

 

The "veil" is obtained using very fine and twisted threads that are woven with a cloth framework. Very fresh and transparent, it is suitable for summer shirts in single colours. It is prohibited to wear it over vests or T-shirts. Available in five colours.

 

 

Voil - double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Cotonificio Albini s.p.a.

 

Weight 95-99grms./nl title 100/2 - 100/2

 

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ZEPHIR

 

 

The name, deriving from the win zephyr, immediately evokes a sense of freshness. The cloth framework with more warp than weft threads and disposed in a less compact manner that that of poplin, renders this precious cloth particularly suitable for the summer season.

 

In the single colour version it is proposed in six colour variations, again in double-twisted pure cotton.

 

 

Zeph- double-twisted pure cotton

 

Cloth Thomas Mason

 

Weight 150grms./ml title 100/2 - 100/2

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 How to choose Mens Dress Shirts

Choosing a men’s dress shirt is an important part of dressing well. Whether you are purchasing a shirt for yourself, or as a gift, the following tips will help you sort through the options.

When shopping for a men’s dress shirt, many considerations should be taken. Style, color, quality and fit are amongst the most important and small touches can make a big difference.

Consider the collar

Men’s shirts come with various collar types - the most popular are the point collar, the button down collar and the spread collar. Point collars are those in which the points of the collar aim straight to the ground and come together in a point. These types of collars are best suited to a small, knotted tie. Button down collars have small buttons at the tips to hold the collar and shirt together and are traditionally a more casual look. A spread collar spreads out from the neck at a forty-five degree angle, which leaves a wide area for a necktie.


Check out the cuffs

Other style considerations include the cuffs. Button cuffs are usually more casual while French cuff and barrel cuff sleeves are more formal. French cuffs generally require cuff links, a traditional and beautiful accessory to a man’s wardrobe.

Formal versus casual

Even though they are all referred to as dress shirts, men’s shirts can range from very formal to dress casual. Factors such as fabric, cut and color will determine how dressy a shirt is considered.

Fabric choices

Men’s dress shirts can come in a wide variety of fabrics, ranging from polyester blends or cottons – generally considered more casual, to dressier silks or linens. Will the shirt be worn with khakis or jeans, or under the jacket of a fine Italian suit?

Options to consider include whether or not to choose a shirt made from wrinkle resistant and stain resistant fabric. Not having to iron the shirt would be a great convenience if you frequently travel. Check if the shirt is dry clean only or if it can be washed at home.

Other quality considerations include ply count. A higher quality shirt will be two-ply and the material will be stronger and softer. Check the collar for the ply information. If it is not listed, you can assume the material is one ply.

Check the side seam. A higher quality shirt will have only one line of stitching whereas most shirts will have two. Better shirts will also have a gauntlet button that closes the sleeve. Check the buttonholes for irregular stitches – ironically irregular stitches here indicates that they have been hand sewn. Hand sewn holes indicate better artisanship as does a two-piece yoke (the part that covers the shoulders) as this provides a better fit.Choosing the right color

Unless you are buying a full wardrobe of shirts, or have a job that requires only white shirts, the color will need to be considered.

Look at the suits you own. Tan or cream shirts would be a poor choice if your suits are grays and blacks, but would work well with brown suits or casual khakis or jeans. Take a friend along to help you select shirts that look attractive with your coloring.

Don’t be afraid of color. Pair a formal European suit with a fine shirt in rich jewel tones or soft pastels for a look that radiates self confidence and style. Brighten up a pair of casual trousers with a bright colored shirt or bold pattern.

If you’re trying to choose a dress shirt for a specific event for which you will have a date, it would be best to note the color your partner will be wearing and coordinate your own outfit. You do not want to show up in a red shirt if your date is wearing a pink dress!

Where to shop

Shopping for a dress shirt can be overwhelming, as there are many stores to choose from.

Narrow down your options by choosing a regular men’s wear store or a specialty store. If you need specialty sizing and a “Big and Tall” type store will better suit your needs.

Consider your budget. Designer and specialty shops will be more expensive than regular shops and department stores.

Does it fit?

Once you choose a shirt from the rack, it is important to try it on. Button the shirt all the way to the top and check to make sure the buttons are well spaced and that there are no gaps between them. Make sure you can put two or three fingers between your neck and the collar of the custom shirt. Bend your arms to make sure that the sleeves are long enough. They should not ride up your wrist.

Check that the cuffs are snug and that they do not hang over your hand. You should not be able to slip into shirtsleeves without first undoing the buttons. Move around as you normally would to make sure the shirt isn’t tight on your chest or over your back and raise your arms over your head to ensure the shirt is long enough and will not pull out of the waistband of your pants.

One thing to consider when you choose a men’s dress shirt is that most shirts will shrink a little upon washing so select a shirt that has a little extra room.

If you are purchasing a shirt as a gift, make sure you have all the required measurements. These include neck and chest sizes as well as sleeve length. If you are purchasing the shirt as a surprise gift, check the sizes on the shirts he has hanging in the closet for guidance.

Custom made shirts

If you want the perfect fit in a dress shirt, custom tailored shirts are still available in many cities. Check with the local high-end men's stores or ask the tailor at your dry cleaner if they know of a shop in your area. Or check out some of the online custom shirt sites, many of which allow you to view a virtual model of your shirt before you place the order.

By - Julie Henry

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 Mens suit - Made to Measure

Every man is very fond of wearing made to measure suits to look perfect fit, for an individual appearance and finest quality. To wear a perfect custom made suit depends on the way you wear it and the right style of accessories. There are ready made suits are available with all sizes, colors, patterns and fabrics in online shops for mens wear. You can purchase ready made suits online from online outlet for men’s suits. If you find suit with perfect fitting suitable to your body type, you can find fine collection of men’s suits from online shops.

Made-to-measure simply means that your suit is adjusted with your measurements from a Measurement block. This is typically done by a machine, and as such a very small number of adjustments can be made.

Custom Made suits are usually very expensive than made to measure suits. Made-to-measure mens suits differs from custom-made suits is, suit modified to fit an individual customer from available stocks of suits. Because no individual pattern has to be made, prices are less in made-to-measure suit. Therefore price is the main advantage of made to measure suit for man, with other benefits of latest style, design and quality fabrics.

Why Made-to-Measure Suit for Man?

Made-to-measure is the best option to buy suit from online suit shop for following reasons

• Budget Limitation: If you wish to buy suit with good quality and most suitable to your body type than you can go for custom made suit. But if you have limited budget and need style and quality with perfect fit suit then made-to-measure suit is most appropriate.

• Latest Design and Style: The online tailor or men’s wear outlets keep good collection of suits from well-known fashion designers. They also have fashion consultant to get update with latest fashion designs and styles of men’s wear. Thus you can get profit to wear made-to-measure designer suit within your budget.

If you go for custom made men’s suit with latest fashion, first of all you need to find good tailor or designer to get latest style and pattern most suitable to your physique. You can go for designer suit only if you are famous personality and can afford to have your own fashion designer.

If you want to make your custom tailored suits, you need to remember a few things. You need to make sure the suits fits very well; you need help from your tailor. Small details also make a difference, such as the type of cuff and pockets. Then be sure to take your lifestyle into account; this will help narrow down your choices regarding fabric. And most importantly, wear suit with style.

And all other types of men’s suits with latest style and fashions.

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 All about mens suits

Every man needs at least one elegant, high quality suit whether it is for work or a special occasion. Mens suits are one of the most important formal basic wear in any men’s wardrobe. Ready made men’s suits are easily available and designed with the latest fashion. Suits projects the man’s confidence and power in business as well as stylish masculinity during formal situations. Selection of appropriate men’s suits for wardrobe is very important for men’s personality. Having business suits in different styles, colors and materials means a man can look his best. The dynamic composition of men’s suit combines the natural comfort and flexibility of quality fabric, with the modernity. This helps men suit retain its style and quality, keep its shape, breathe naturally, and give freedom of movement. With a super soft fabrics and detailing to match, men’s outfit can be compared with the best. Businessman’s wardrobe must be perfect fit with the quality suits, luxury shirts, slacks, jackets, vests, accessories, shoes and tuxedos. Knowing about details of men’s suits such as fabric, collar style, jacket, no of buttons, single breasted or double breasted, mens suit pants, vested suits are very important for selecting best suit match to your personality.

Men’s Suit Stitching

• Stitching is the foundation for holding up all the parts of men’s suits. It is also the hallmark of quality in the work of a tailor or designer.
• High quality custom suit need neat and firm stitching on all parts on men’s suits.
• Hand stitching is the best but its finish is usually uneven compared to machine-stitch.
• The buttons and button holes are properly placed to check the quality of stitch.    

Mens Suit’s Collar and Lapel

• Suit collars extending to the front part of the chest area are known as lapels. Lapels and collars are widely modified mens suits for change suit fashion. The collar snugs tightly around your neck without buckling. One half inch of the dress shirt should be visible under the suit collar.
• Standard lapel width should be 3 to 4 inches. Most importantly, it should be proportionate to the overall size of the men’s suit as well as the distance between the chests to the shoulder.
• Lapels have to fall flat on your chest. They should not buckle or bunch up. In general, lapels should have the end tip about halfway between the suit’s top sleeve and collar.

Pocket Style for Men Suit

• Pockets are important in mens custom suits because its styles can vary on different suits.
• A popular tailoring for pockets is the besom. It is an inset pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a narrow welted slit-type opening.
• Three types of pockets are popular on suits are slit pockets, flap pockets and high quality pockets. Slit pockets represents a slit style which gives a clean finish on the suit’s hip area. Usually the slit pockets are jetted at the opening of the pockets. Flap pockets are additional fabric on covering the outside of the pocket opening. A high quality pocket allows both a slit pocket and flap pocket. It is required to be double-besomed so that it becomes a slit pocket when the flap is inserted into the pocket. It gives alternate looks on a single suit.

Vent in Men’s Suit

• In men’s suit, vents are vertical slit openings creating flaps at the lower back of suits.
• Vents are tailored to provide freedom and space for movement around the hip area of the suit. Without a vent, it can cause the suit to crumble and feel tight at the hip area.
•  Vents should have the one of the flaps overlap the other by about ¾ inch and not reveal the pants through it.
• The three popular types of vents in custom suits are single vent, double vent and vent-less.
•  In single vents, the slit opening is at the center lower back of the suit. This is a typical look found among American-style suit.
• In double vents, vents are cut symmetrically on both sides of the hip area of the men suit. It provides more freedom of movement than single vents. It also emphasizes the lines of the body.
• In Vent-less there is no vent. Ventless suit can restrict movement like raising your arm or sitting. It is more suitable for slimmer man.

Button in Men’s Suit

• Buttons involves the most handling during the wearing experience especially when fastening and unfastening.
• Plastic buttons are not suitable in suits. Select natural horn, pearl, or bone buttons in men suits. Mother-of-pearl, metal, or ceramics are other types of button for men’s suit.
• Check that the closure is tight when buttoned. There should not be puckering of fabrics around the fastened buttons. Such puckering would mean unleveled sewing of buttons and button holes.
• Mens suits are available in 1 button, 2 button, 3 button and 4 button suits.

Shoulder Padding in Mens Suits

• Generally most suits have padding and the thickness of shoulder pads depends on the men’s shoulder and body shape.
• Slightly thicker shoulder pads would be suitable for slope shoulder men to make the custom suit look leveled.
• Heavy padding will not be suitable for men with wide broad shoulders.

 Armhole and Sleeve style in Men Suit

• Armholes are the inside of your sleeves where you slip your arm in.
• Generally high arm holes would give custom suit a nice drape.
• The armholes should be wide enough for easy movement of arms.
• An important advice about sleeve style in suit is they should end at about ½ to ¼ inches before the dress shirt cuffs worn within.
• Generally the sleeve will end at mid-point of your wrist bone.

 Mens Suits Pants

• Mens suits encompassing the pants are the drape, the pleats and the cuffs.
• Drape of the pants over your lower body should be smooth and floats over your legs.
• The length of the rise complements your height. Taller men will suit higher rise while shorter men should settle for lower rise.
• In mens suit pants, there are 3 types of pleats such as single pleat, double pleat, and pleatless flat front.
• Cuffs are upward folds made at the end of the pants. It is recommended that your cuffs be 1½ - 1¾ inch wide depending on the men’s overall size. Generally pants cuffs look better on taller man.
• To make shorter man look even shorter with cuff pants. Make sure the cuff at the pants end fall with ease without too much gather.

Mens Suit Styles

Nowadays, men believe that looking good is an important aspect of their lives. Whether it is business, parties, gathering or the social life, men are now more cognizant about their looks as compared to the past. For looking good and fashionable, it certainly requires little amount of effort but ultimately your clothes have to suit your image, style and personality. One thing should always be kept in mind, that it is not about the clothes you wear but how you should wear them. You need to maintain a balance between the fashionable and the basic attire in your wardrobe for exclusive collection of suits.

Mens Suit Styles

• Men's Single Breasted Suit
• Mens Double Breasted Suit
• Men's Double Breasted Tuxedo Suit
• Mens Tuxedo Suit
• Men's Three Piece Vested Suit

Men's Single Breasted Suit

These are the basic style of most suits. The front buttons on the suits are in a single straight row. There are two types of single breasted suit; two button single breasted Suit and three button single breasted suits. Single breasted men’s suit means a suit with a coat or jacket having single row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric while a double breasted suit has a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. A single-breasted suit jacket with three or four buttons will elongate a larger upper body and tend to flatter the slim. Single-breasted suits are generally better for slender figures.

Go for the two buttons, mens single breasted suit if this is your first suit. While the three button is very trendy, it is not always appropriate and will probably be out of style soon. The two-button suit is an essential basic for mans wardrobe. Single Breasted with 2 Buttons and side vents, trousers have one reverse pleat is a classic suit for all kinds of occasions.

Men’s Double Breasted Suit

The suit jacket has one its front overlap the other with two sets of buttons. This is often seen as a more formal suit worn by older men. Double-breasted will always be proper and elegant. It goes up and down in popularity, just like the three-button single-breasted suit. Select double breasted suit with latest buttons, slight change in silhouette with a thin tie and few layers. A fine navy blue double breasted suit definitely makes your fine personality even in the large gathering.

Unlike single-breasted dress suits, the jacket of a double-breasted suit has two sets of buttons to hold the jacket closed as it wraps a little further around the waist. A double breasted suit will never have a single back vent. Instead, two side vents are the standard. In double breasted suit, mostly one column of buttons is simply decorative. Only those at the outer edge of the overlap actually fasten the two layers together. The others, placed on the outside of the outer layer, either serve no purpose or allow the overlap to be reversible.

Double breasted suits have a slenderizing effect on portly men, while that extra panel of fabric can appear to swallow the physique of slender men. Black double breasted suit gives you fashionable look. Mens double breasted custom suits is best choice for some special occasion. And with black double breasted suits, you have a choice of wearing black or brown shoes and accessories.

Men's Double Breasted Tuxedo Suit

You need to make good selection of your suit such as if you need to frequently wear suits all the year then you should have more suit for better choice. In collection of men’s suit one should have various types of double breasted tuxedo suits. Black double breasted tuxedo suit is choice of fashion conscious people while olive suit double breast tuxedo is more casual.

Mans double breasted tuxedo suit is appropriate for business wear to be wear at daytime and also for social occasions. Double breasted tuxedo suit can be wear in summer as well as in springs also. Double breasted tuxedo suit you can wear while getting married, or if you are full time Banquet Manager you are required to wear tuxedo day and night. Man’s double breasted Tuxedo styles perfect for both work and play. Tuxedo coat which overlaps itself in the front, often adorned with four buttons or six buttons.  

With both classic and trendy styles to choose from, the fabric, cut, and perfect tailoring tuxedos are sure to get you noticed. You can wear matching accessories with tuxedos, such as fancy cufflinks or handkerchiefs in the breast pocket. The number of buttons on the mans double breasted tuxedo suit is a matter of personal preference; many people consider more buttons to appear more fashionable, but a single or dual buttoned jacket is much more traditional in appearance.

Men's Tuxedo Suits

Men’s Tuxedo Suit is right choice for any formalwear occasion. Find the right tuxedo and formal accessories will definitely give perfect look to your personality. The various type of tuxedo are Wedding tuxedos, prom tuxedos etc. Designer tuxedos suit provides the extra flair to the overall formal look of men's designer formal wear suits. High quality tuxedos made of fine pure wool fabrics will last for years. Fashion Tuxedos are ideal for prom tuxedos and wedding tuxedos. In mens tuxedo with more distinctive cuts that may be ideal for a specific occasion or distinguishing designs that may be ideal for a specific man. Men's two button front Tuxedo is a classic and will never be out of style. Three button front tuxedo is standard and continues to lead the fashion trends.Custom shirts as per the tuxedo fabric colour.

Men's Three Piece Vested Suit

Men’s three piece vested suits featured excellent in fashion circles, and seem to be inspired by the classic look. Wear your vest buttoned up underneath suit jacket. A three piece suit vested will have either two side adjusters or the more common back adjuster. A vested suit would be proportionate to the suit. Men’s three piece suit vested gives new outfit and classy look.

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 A Mans Dress Shirt Design features

Do you know the basic dress shirt design features? No. Yes. Well, here we go.

As part of a formal wear, a men's dress shirt is designed to be worn with a suit and necktie. In the US, a dress shirt is referred to a long-sleeved, button-down, shirt made of light-weight woven material: linen, cotton or polyester, or a combination of cotton and polyester are the most common.

 

On the other body, a woman’s dress shirt is called a blouse. Woman sometimes wear a dress shirt and necktie or bow tie as part of a uniform. The buttons on a lady’s dress shirt is found on the left, where as, the men shirt buttons are on the right. A woman’s dress shirt or blouse is normally figure-fitted.

Important dress shirt design features include:

• buttons
• collars
• cuffs
• placket
• pleats
• and pockets

Buttons are essential features, but, do you know how many buttons are there on a dress shirt placket?  Dress shirts normally have seven buttons down the front, regardless of shirt sizes.  When I first find out, I counted the front buttons on every dress shirt in my closet, and in clothing stores thereafter. It was true to the fact. Buttons may be placed to button-down cuffs and collars, too.

Dress shirt collars vary. There are different degrees of cuts to compliment the type of suitable tie knots. Common shirt collars are the button-down pointed collars, the rounded collars, the wing collar and the “Windsor” collar—a wide cut away to accommodate the Windsor tie knot.

Custom shirt cuffs are generally sewn on the tail-end of the long-sleeve, although, it can be a separate band of fabric.  Barrel Cuffs are button together. French Cuffs are folded back and held together with cuff links, or silk knots. The French Cuffs are common in the United Kingdom, and the Barrel Cuffs are used for most occasions in the United States.

Have you ever noticed a dress shirt placket? It is the front center-piece where the front buttons and the fabric two sides overlap. The overlapped fabric stops the buttons from rubbing against your skin. The placket is normally used to help put on and take off clothing, but, it is also use as a fashion statement.

Plackets are more often made with double layers of fabric to support the stress placed on them by buttons, zippers or snaps. The buttons on the placket can be designed to be visible or hidden. Plackets can also be found on the neckline of a custom shirt, cuffs, pants or lady’s skirt.

Where can you find shirt pleats on a dress shirt? I’ll tell you. Pleats are found on the back of the shirt, and where the sleeve joints the cuff. Your shirt or custom dress shirt can have a pleat in the center of the back (double fold), single pleats on both shoulders or an inverted pleat in center of the shirt back.

Some dress shirts are made without pleats. And don’t forget, pleats can be found adjoining cuffs.

Guess what? Dress shirt pocket cuts can vary as well. There are rounded corners, diagonal corners, V-pointed bottoms and rare pockets with flaps.

So, whether you’re searching for readymade or custom tailored shirts in a real store, or online, pay attention to dress shirt design features.

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 How to check if your custom shirt fits

1. While the custom shirt is buttoned, you should be able to slide two fingers between your neck and collar.
2. When you move your arm in your custom dress shirt, the sleeves should be long enough so that cuffs do not ride up your wrist.
3. The cuffs of your custom made shirt should just be tight enough that they do not hang over your hand. You should not be able to slip into shirt sleeves without first undoing buttons on the cuff.
4. To make sure your custom fitted shirt is comfortable and not too tight, check that the shirt does not pull uncomfortably across the shoulders, chest or waist.
5. Check the buttons of your custom shirt they should be secure, no loose threads and well-placed with no gaping holes exposing your chest or waist.
6. To check the proper shirt length of your custom shirt, raise your arms and make sure that shirt tail does not come out of your pants.

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